Bra Tenders 101 WHAT WE DO Thanks for reading Lori’s Substack! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. My pledge to the wardrobe and costume community across every facet of entertainment has always been, “my job is to make your job easier” Let me ask a question- do you know how much effort goes into figuring out which tights work best on which actor for a major Broadway or Hollywood musical production, with dozens of cast members, and twice as many pairs of legs? What you see on stage is the final product, and the result of hundreds of people’s work, sometimes going back years and years. The average retail price of tights is between 8 and 35 bucks a pair. Do you know how much work has to be done to sell 25,000 worth? It’s hundreds of transactions. It’s dozens of phone calls and emails, and hours of B2B browsing. It’s networking, and detective work, all of which demands ferocious tenacity. Which, if I am anything at all, is tenacious. When tech is happening, any show, on any day can call us 7 times an hour- The designer hates the color of the tights under the lights, let’s start from scratch for this actor for that track. At the beginning of a Broadway production, we meet with the costume design team to get an overview of the show, and hear what they will use in terms of our products, and what they will need me to source. Then, we help them wade through the miasma of underwear, which, like legwear, is tricky, because we need to skin match as close as possible, several different skin tones in any given cast. We can get close with tights. With underwear it’s a whole other ball of wax. Part of what has turned into my life work, is finding underwear in more than one shade of “nude”. First, we assemble samples for each actor, usually 2-4 options of each style of hose, so everyone gets a base layer, then their “look” – be it fishnets, sparkles, or some such thing. If there’s a cast of 20, and each pair of legs needs 3 kinds of hose, and 3 options of each, well, that takes a whole lotta work by me, and the entire staff. It takes me hours to source those samples, and I usually have to buy 3 pair to get 1 sample. If that sample isn’t the best of three, I’m stuck with 2 odd pair of money sitting on the shelf. And this pertains to every pair of legs, on almost every stage in NY., tours. Vegas. Disney. Dance. TV, HBO, Netflix, Tyler Perry Studios, Western Costume, yada yada. Fishnets- Mini, Whale net or maxi net? Professional weight or street wear weight? Spider web or crochet? With seams or without? Striped tights, sure, horizontal or vertical? And dozens of different types of hosiery, in 5 skin shades, in 8 sizes, from petite to 7X. Control top, sheer up support, no support, shiny, matte finish, in deniers from 8 to 100. Stockings and thigh highs, lace tops, no lace, with silicone grippers, no grip, plus size, seams, Cuban heels, no heels. The trick for me is to find products that meet all the specs, and is a core staple in the line of the manufacturer. Continuity, as they say in the industry. Unlike department stores, who stock a few basics, and many seasonal trend styles, once a show decides on something, it’s in The Bible. The Bible contains the sum total details of everything used in the show, for every character, every act, scene, etc. Heaven help the poor intern who tells a costume designer that a product has been discontinued once it’s inThe Bible. We keep stock of it for on- demand needs, and don’t much like hearing it’s discontinued either. This is very costly for us, with very fickle customers, who often decide that a “new look is required for the new lead, so we’re not using those anymore.” And that’s how we wound up with a stockroom full of pantyhose that nobody needs. Then there’s the underwear, all the skin pieces, skintimates. Bras, bottoms, shapewear, legwear, whatever period items may be required, whatever else will be worn beneath the clothes, or become part of the costume, whether seen or not. I get a cast list, with every woman wearing the wrong bra size. Three options of each size for each actor, say there’s 6 of them who have been cast, more to come. We ask if the actors can come to the shop so they can be properly fit, but they usually can’t, so we ask for pictures. Instead we get incomplete and incorrect, and outdated measurements. Every 34B, is actually a 32DD. once they find a bra that fits, they’re shocked. They’re titillated. Before we arrive at the correct size, of course, there is much back and forth, many, many exchanges of goods, a lot of busy-ness, often with very small payoff. Sometimes a production will “memo”, or borrow a great deal of goods, and end up with only 1 item. My hope is that Virtual Fittings will allow me to be that proverbial fly on the wall, be able to pull bras that are the right size, the first time. I only need an eyeball on a body to “breastimate” with uncanny accuracy, the correct size, and the bra, that will create the shape the designer desires, for each actor. We carry 81 bra sizes, from around 12 companies, 3-5 styles per, 2 or 3 colors each style. If I buy one bra, in one color, in a complete 81 size range, it’s a minimum of $4000 wholesale order. If I get 2 colors, black and nude, just one unit each… Big Inventory. Big bucks to maintain levels. Each actor gets their choice of bottoms, as part of the initial round of fittings. Thongs or g strings, Boy shorts, or